As you may or may not have noticed, rock climbing is gaining in popularity on campus and all over the world. Every semester, enthusiastic students take advantage of UT’s very own rock wall at Gregory Gym as well as their shoe rental. But for climbers that want to get the most out of the sport, the right shoe can make a huge difference in your rock climbing experience. However, picking a pair can be daunting if you don’t know what to look for but with these tips, you can be sure to make the right choice for your feet!
How fit the shoe is, is extremely important. Typically, climbing shoes should be extremely snug, but not so constricting that putting them on is a struggle.
“With climbing shoes, because your foot fitting tightly inside the shoe creates the edging platform, tightness is super important. If the fit is baggy around your toes or if there’s extra space and the shoe has too much volume for your foot in the toe box, then when you try to step on an edge or use some precise footwork, the shoe is going to slide around and you’re going to slip off the edges,” UT rock climbing coach, John Myrick, says.
Sizes also vary from brand to brand. In MadRock, Evolv, and 5.10, most climbers opt for a size smaller than their normal street size. But other brands such as La Sportiva might require three to four sizes smaller. It’s important to shop around and try on different sizes and brands to find the perfect fit.
Shape is another important factor to consider. For beginners, a flat, less curved shape is typical. There’s no need for a cambered (downturned) shape because lower grade routes are less demanding in footwork. Competitive climber, Sean Vallefuoco, uses a very cambered shoe for his climbs.
“I definitely wouldn’t recommend this as a first climbing shoe because they are extremely aggressive, which is unnecessary if you are new to the sport,” Vallefuoco says.
As experience increases, a more aggressive shoe will promote better footwork, especially for overhang, crack, and trad climbing.
“They’re going to be designed more for steep terrain so you can more easily pull with your toes and use your core strength to help keep you on the wall,” Myrick says. “A cambered shoe is not going to be that great smearing on a slab that’s less than vertical.”
Climbing shoes can also be made out of a variety of different materials. Synthetic materials don’t have a lot of stretch to them and won’t mold to the shape of your feet. Some upsides of synthetics include the lack of animal products and the convenient ability to be thrown into the wash regularly with minimal shrinkage or bleeding, alleviating the infamous smelly climber’s shoe. The other material option is leather, which stretches and molds to your foot shape. If buying leather, make sure the pair is very form-fitting when first purchased because the material has a tendency to loosen up and stretch. A downside is that leather shoes can’t be machine-washed without shrinking and bleeding, making it hard to prevent bad odors.
It’s important to try on several different brands, sizes, and shapes to find the perfect pair to meet your needs. A good shoe usually costs around $100, and while some brands price their shoes over $200, there’s no need to spend a fortune.
“The most important thing is when you go to try shoes out, make sure you have plenty of time. You don’t want to rush it. . . Once you gain more experience, you can tell what works for you better,” Myrick says.